What Features Should Shoes for Orthotics Have? The Complete Checklist

A removable insole is the single most important feature in any shoe you plan to wear with orthotics. Without it, your orthotic sits on top of the factory insole, raising your foot too high. You'll get heel slip, cramping across the top of the foot, and instability.

Your orthotic needs to rest directly on the midsole, in the space the factory insole occupied. That's the only way it can work as intended.

In-shop test: reach inside the shoe, grip the insole near the heel, and give it a gentle pull upward. If it lifts out cleanly, the shoe passes. If the insole is glued down, move on.

Even after removing the factory insole, the shoe needs enough internal depth for your orthotic plus your foot. Many fashion shoes are simply too shallow. They're designed for looks, not to hold an insert.

Extra depth means there's enough vertical space inside the shoe that your foot isn't pressed against the upper or cramped across the toes and instep.

In-shop test: compare the thickness of your orthotic to the factory insole you just removed. If your orthotic is noticeably thicker, you need a shoe with extra depth. Try the shoe on with your orthotic inside and check for pressure on the top of the foot.

The heel counter is the rigid cup built into the back of the shoe. It holds your heel firmly in place and stops it rolling or slipping. When you wear an orthotic, a firm heel counter becomes even more important. The device raises the heel slightly, and any lateral movement gets amplified.

In-shop test: pinch the back of the shoe between your thumb and forefinger. A good heel counter will resist the pressure and spring back. If it collapses easily or feels soft, the shoe won't hold your heel securely over the orthotic.

Laces, Velcro, or buckles let you fine-tune the fit around the instep once the orthotic is in. This matters because the orthotic changes the internal volume of the shoe, and you need a way to compensate.

Slip-ons, ballet flats, and most loafers offer no adjustment at all. Once the orthotic is inside, you've got no way to tighten things up.

In-shop test: with the orthotic inside, fasten the shoe and check that you can snug the instep comfortably. You should be able to tighten or loosen the fit without creating pressure points.

A wide, rounded, or square toe box gives your toes room to spread naturally. This matters for everyone, but particularly for orthotic wearers, because the device can push the foot slightly forward inside the shoe.

Pointed or narrow toe boxes compress the toes. That leads to blisters and bunions, especially if you already have a foot condition.

In-shop test: with the orthotic inside and the shoe fastened, wiggle your toes. You should be able to move all five toes freely. If any toe is pressing against the side or front of the shoe, the toe box is too narrow or too short.

The NHS generally recommends a maximum heel height of 3 to 4 centimetres for orthotic wearers. Anything higher tilts the foot forward, destabilises the orthotic, and shifts pressure onto the ball of the foot.

This applies to all footwear, including trainers with thick platform soles. A flat trainer with a 4 cm platform and no drop is different from a heeled boot with a 4 cm heel, but both add height that affects how your orthotic sits.

In-shop test: place the shoe on a flat surface and look at it from the side. The heel should be close to the same height as the forefoot. If the heel is visibly elevated, measure it and keep it under 4 cm.

Your orthotic needs a firm, stable platform to sit on. Shoes with air bladders, gel pockets, or extremely soft foam midsoles can interfere with how the orthotic controls your foot.

These cushioning technologies compress and bounce back, which sounds appealing. But they create an unstable surface underneath your orthotic. The device can't do its corrective work if the ground beneath it keeps shifting.

In-shop test: press your thumb firmly into the midsole (the layer between the outsole and the insole). It should feel firm with a small amount of give. If your thumb sinks in deeply or the sole feels like a sponge, the shoe is too soft for reliable orthotic use.

Use this table as a reference every time you shop for orthotic-compatible shoes:

Feature	What to Check
Removable insole	Grip and lift the insole near the heel. It should come away cleanly.
Extra depth	Compare orthotic thickness to factory insole. Try on with orthotic inside.
Firm heel counter	Pinch the back of the shoe. It should resist and spring back.
Adjustable fastening	Laces, Velcro, or buckles. Avoid slip-ons.
Wide toe box	Wiggle all five toes freely with the orthotic inside.
Low heel (under 4 cm)	View from the side on a flat surface. Measure if unsure.
Stable sole	Press thumb into midsole. Should be firm with slight give.

Do I need to buy specialist orthopaedic shoes?

Not necessarily. Ordinary shoes from mainstream brands work perfectly well if they have all seven features listed above. Specialist shoes are useful when you have a particularly thick device or an unusual foot shape, but they're not always required.

What about shoes with memory foam insoles?

I'd avoid them. Memory foam compresses unpredictably over time and creates an unstable surface for the orthotic. Remove the memory foam insole and replace it with your orthotic device.

Can I just pick any mainstream trainer brand?

No. Compatibility depends on the individual model, not the brand. One trainer from a brand may have a removable insole and firm heel counter, while another model from the same brand may not. Always check each shoe individually.

How long should orthotic-compatible shoes last?

Most well-made shoes last 12 to 18 months with daily wear. Running shoes may need replacing sooner. See our guide on how long orthotics and shoes last for more detail.

Buying for a child? School shoes have specific requirements. Read our guide on features to look for in school shoes for orthotics.

Browse our full Orthotic Shoe Buyer Guide for more detailed advice on every aspect of buying shoes for orthotics.